L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci c1948

L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci, launched in 1948, emerged during a period of profound transition and renewal following World War II. This era was marked by a desire for fresh starts and a return to elegance after the harsh years of wartime austerity. The fragrance landscape of the late 1940s was characterized by a blend of traditional sophistication and new, innovative styles. Perfumes of the time often featured complex floral compositions that reflected a renewed sense of femininity and luxury.

In this context, L'Air du Temps stood out as a quintessential example of the era's evolving trends. While it adhered to the popular floral genre, its delicate floral blend with spicy overtones offered a sophisticated twist that set it apart from other fragrances of the time. The perfume’s intense femininity and its intricate balance of floral and spicy notes catered to women who were eager to re-embrace their femininity and enjoy a touch of romance and luxury.

Nina Ricci's choice of the name "L'Air du Temps" translates to "The Spirit of the Times" or "The Air of the Times" in English. This name reflects a desire to capture the essence of the post-war period—a time when people were longing for a sense of normalcy, renewal, and beauty after the turmoil of the war years. The phrase suggests a fragrance that embodies the spirit and elegance of the contemporary moment, resonating with the cultural shift towards refinement and grace.

Women of the late 1940s, having contributed to the war effort in various capacities, were now seeking ways to reconnect with their pre-war femininity and embrace a more romantic, sophisticated lifestyle. A perfume named "L'Air du Temps" would have appealed to their desire for a fresh start and a return to elegance. The fragrance, with its delicate floral notes and subtle spicy undertones, would evoke feelings of sophistication and timeless beauty, aligning perfectly with the era's aspirations.

The name "L'Air du Temps" evokes a sense of nostalgia and aspiration, conjuring images of a serene and graceful post-war society. It captures the desire to move beyond the hardships of the past and embrace a future filled with elegance and charm. Women responding to this perfume would likely associate it with a romanticized vision of their lives and the broader cultural moment—a breath of fresh air and a symbol of their return to femininity and sophistication.

Overall, L'Air du Temps represented more than just a fragrance; it was a reflection of a cultural and emotional rebirth. Its name and composition offered a poignant reminder of the era's collective longing for beauty, grace, and a renewed sense of self.

From the Nina Ricci website -

"L'Air du Temps, the icon fragrance from the Nina Ricci house. The perfect harmony of an enchanting elixir, the symbol of femininity and eternal youth. The emblematic values of L'Air du Temps remain universal: peace, purity, freedom and love. L'Air du Temps is also the air that we breathe, the mood of the moment, the reflection of each era. L'Air du Temps...an unequaled moment of emotion. Fragrance: Floral-Spicy "L'Air du Temps is a little olfactory miracle" - Robert Ricci.

Original Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? The original formulation for L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci is classified as a floral fragrance for women. Intensely feminine fragrance; a delicate floral blend with spicy overtones. It starts with a fresh flowery top, followed by a spicy floral heart, resting on a mild, powdery, feminine base.

• Top notes: alouchi, aldehyde C11 undecylcenic, spice notes, Tunisian neroli, Calabrian bergamot, linalool, Brazilian rosewood, lilalyl acetate, Chinese peach
• Middle notes: sweet pea from Aegean Islands, Alpine lily of the valley, hydroxycitronellal, orchid, Szechuan pepper, rose de Mai absolute, phenylethyl alcohol, Tuscan violet, alpha-isomethyl ionone, Manila ylang ylang, Reunion Island gardenia, styrallyl acetate, Grasse jasmine absolute, benzyl acetate, amyl cinnamic aldehyde, Florentine orris, lily, French carnation absolute, Zanzibar clove, iseoeugenol, eugenol, benzyl salicylate, Dutch lilac, terpineol, and Spanish rosemary
• Base notes: Moroccan almond, Indonesian aloeswood, patchouli from Oceania, Tonkin musk, musk ketone, Indian musk ambrette, Lebanese cedar, Mysore sandalwood, Java vetiver, vetiveryl acetate, Tyrolean oakmoss, Siamese benzoin, Somali opoponax, ambergris, Madagascar vanilla, vanillin, Peruvian heliotrope, heliotropin 

 

L'Air du Temps made use of aromachemical irisantheme by Givaudan. Irisantheme is alpha-isomethyl ionone, and provides a violet sweet orris powdery floral woody accord. A carnation-salicylate accord was used to provide a spicy lift to the fragrance. A "green" hyacinth-jasmine complex blends well with the carnation. 

The opulent scent of L'Air du Temps is heightened by the usage of a large proportion of benzyl salicylate (15%), and eugenol. These two materials together with ylang ylang and isoeugenol provide the essential carnation character that dominates the perfume throughout its evaporation. The heart of the perfume is a bouquet of floral notes reduced to their simplest components. Terpineol for lilac, styrallyl acetate for gardenia, phenylethyl alcohol for rose, hydroxycitronellal (10%) for lily of the valley, and benzyl acetate and amyl cinnamic aldehydes for jasmine. The top note (14%) is a classic mixture of bergamot and rosewood, together with their naturally occurring ingredients linalool and lilalyl acetate. 

The base note also contains the important accord between Irisantheme (10%), vetiveryl acetate, Mysore sandalwood, musk ketone and originally, musk ambrette. These materials together with the carnation make up the immediately recognizable central character of the perfume. 

 Although the essential character of the perfume is built around ingredients already mentioned, most of its richness and quality comes from the use of jasmine and rose absolutes. By the addition of these two high quality raw materials, many hundreds of individual ingredients are added that envelop and enhance the main structure of the perfume. In L'Air du Temps we have a perfect example of classical simplicity combined with the complexity that comes from the use of fine natural materials. Inclusions of aldehyde C11 undecylcenic brings additional impact, blending perfectly with the styrallyl acetate and acting as a bridge between the top notes and the rest of the perfume. Also added were trace amounts of vanillin, heliotropin and orris. . 

L'air du Temps by Nina Ricci is a light floral muguet that is extended and enhanced by bergamot, lemon and orange oils. This light 'springtime' fragrance accord is still very popular today. It must be regarded as one of the most important perfumes ever made. Not only has it enjoyed a great and enduring commercial success for over 70 years, its influence can be seen behind the creation of a number of fragrances that followed in its wake, such as the 1960s masterpiece Fidji.

Scent Profile:

The first breath of L'Air du Temps is a luminous cascade of freshness, where aldehyde C11 undecylenic bursts forth — a sparkling, airy brightness that feels like dawn breaking over a garden still glistening with dew. This effervescent quality is tempered by Tunisian neroli, distilled from the delicate orange blossoms of sun-drenched orchards, lending a honeyed, green floral nuance that mingles seamlessly with the tart, sun-ripened sweetness of Calabrian bergamot — renowned for its vibrant, citrusy effervescence, brighter and more complex than its counterparts from elsewhere. A whisper of spice emerges, warming the composition with an inviting piquancy, while Brazilian rosewood, a now-rare essence, imbues a softly resinous, woody richness, creating an ethereal balance. Lilalyl acetate contributes a subtle, fruity-floral lift, reminiscent of crushed blossoms on a warm breeze, while the gentle fuzz of Chinese peach adds a velvety, sweetly rounded texture, bridging the top notes to the heart with tender smoothness.

As the fragrance unfolds, the heart blooms in a radiant symphony of florals, each note adding its own nuance to the tapestry. Sweet pea from the Aegean Islands unfurls first — airy, sweet, and slightly green, evoking sun-drenched coastlines and wild blossoms kissed by sea spray. Alpine lily of the valley follows, a crisp, dewy echo of springtime forests, its innocent, bell-like freshness enhanced by hydroxycitronellal, an aroma chemical that intensifies the note’s cool, green, floral purity. Orchid, delicate yet powdery, lends a creamy softness, while Szechuan pepper — prized for its zesty, tingly warmth — dances unexpectedly among the florals, adding a vibrant, spicy flicker. Rose de Mai absolute from Grasse, cultivated with centuries-old expertise, blooms at the heart with unmatched richness, its honeyed, slightly tea-like sweetness deepened by phenylethyl alcohol, a molecule that amplifies the fresh, rosy facets.

Tuscan violet, with its earthy sweetness and powdery elegance, is enhanced by alpha-isomethyl ionone, a compound that underscores the velvety, woody-floral aroma of violet petals. Manila ylang ylang brings its exotic, slightly banana-like creaminess, while Reunion Island gardenia offers an intoxicating, waxy lushness. Styrallyl acetate adds a fruity-green brightness to the gardenia, making the floral bouquet feel almost sunlit. Grasse jasmine absolute — one of the most sought-after florals in perfumery — intoxicates with its narcotic, creamy sweetness, uplifted by benzyl acetate, which enhances the jasmine’s fruity, juicy undertones. Amyl cinnamic aldehyde brings a warm, ambery floral glow, intertwining with the opulence of Florentine orris, revered for its buttery, violet-like powderiness.

French carnation absolute lends a peppery, clove-like spice, bolstered by Zanzibar clove’s deeper, fiery warmth. Isoeugenol and eugenol — key molecules derived from clove — heighten this spicy heart, while benzyl salicylate brings a gentle, sweet, balsamic creaminess that binds the flowers together. Dutch lilac’s soft, almondy floralcy and the fresh, herbaceous brightness of Spanish rosemary add the final touches to this complex, multifaceted heart.

As L'Air du Temps settles on the skin, the base reveals itself — a warm, sensual embrace, rich with rare and precious materials. Moroccan almond opens the drydown with a sweet, nutty warmth, while Indonesian aloeswood (oud) introduces an exotic, smoky depth that feels both ancient and mysterious. Patchouli from Oceania — earthy and slightly camphorous — grounds the sweetness, while Tonkin musk hums with an animalic, skin-like sensuality. Musk ketone, a classic synthetic musk, enhances this warmth with a velvety smoothness, blending seamlessly with Indian musk ambrette’s soft, floral muskiness.

Lebanese cedar, dry and slightly peppery, adds strength and structure, while the creamy, rich depth of Mysore sandalwood — prized for its unparalleled smoothness — anchors the composition with a subtle, milky sweetness. Java vetiver brings a smoky, grassy, woody facet, deepened by vetiveryl acetate, which refines and softens the rooty quality into a smooth, woody silkiness. Tyrolean oakmoss, harvested from the highlands, imparts a damp, forest-floor earthiness, laced with a bittersweet greenness that contrasts beautifully with the sweeter resins.

Siamese benzoin glows with a honeyed, vanilla-balsamic warmth, blending into Somali opoponax’s soft, resinous, almost ambery sweetness. Ambergris — rare and prized — lends a salty, animalic, slightly marine warmth, while Madagascar vanilla, rich and creamy, merges with vanillin, which sweetens and softens the drydown even further. Peruvian heliotrope unfurls last, with its almond-like, powdery, softly floral sweetness, heightened by heliotropin — a molecule that enriches its warm, comforting, slightly marzipan-like aroma.

The result is a fragrance that transcends time — delicate yet powerful, intricate yet effortless — an embodiment of femininity and grace. L'Air du Temps is more than a scent; it’s an olfactory journey through gardens, spice markets, and distant lands, blending nature’s most precious gifts with the brilliance of perfumery’s finest innovations.

The flacons:

The original bottle used for L'Air du Temps was an oval flacon molded with a starburst pattern made by Lalique, known as the "Soleil" flacon, it had a button shaped crystal stopper. The very rare first version of this legendary perfume extract: "Soleil" bottle in solid colorless pressed molded frosted satin crystal, its frosted cabochon stopper decorated in relief with a dove, neck and stopper enhanced with gold, with its luxury square cardboard box covered in gold paper and embossed parchment illustrated with a woman's bust and a dove. Titled. Bottle and box created by Juan Rebull. Bottle created by Marc Lalique, wheel-signed Height: 11 cm.

Dove Bottles:

L'Air du Temps parfum is bottled in a unique flacon manufactured by Lalique, a celebrated French crystal manufacturer. Perched atop the stopper on this crystal flacon is a pair of doves, a universal symbol of peace and love. L'Air du Temps parfum extrait has been housed in these Lalique crystal flacons since 1951, when the flacon was designed by Marc Lalique.

If your bottle is missing it's label or box, use this handy guide below. All measurements are taken from base to tip of uppermost wing.

Double Dove Bottles:

• 8 oz bottle stands 8" tall
• 3 1/3 oz bottle stands 6" tall
• 2 oz bottle stands 4.25"tall.
• 1 oz bottle stands 4" tall
• 1/2 oz bottle stands 3.5" tall
• 1/4 oz stands 3" tall

Single Dove Bottles:

• 1/2 oz bottle stands 3.25" tall 
• 1/4 oz bottle stands 3" tall

The other L'Air du Temps products are packaged in glass or plastic containers, most of which bear doves either molded or embossed thereon. All the L'Air du Temps products are boxed in pale yellow cardboard boxes, and many are wrapped with a pale yellow wrapping paper, each prominently displaying the name Nina Ricci and also the name L'Air du Temps.

For the Christmas 1984 selling season the Nina Ricci company decided to change the packages of some of the L'Air du Temps products (except the perfume), apparently in an attempt to "modernize" and upgrade the packaging. In this regard new containers were produced for some of the products with gold doves and assorted flora embossed on the glass containers. Other products were wrapped in gold wrapping paper also bearing the imprint of doves and assorted flora, the new packaging was dubbed the "golden theme" by Parfums Nina Ricci.

Parfums Nina Ricci expended a great deal of time, effort, and money promoting this new collection of L'Air du Temps products, and referred to the items repackaged in this promotion as the "Les Colombes d'Or" collection "the golden doves". The name "Les Colombes d'Or," however, was not used in any promotions directed at the consumer, nor is it inscribed on any of the gold packaging used for the collection. Indeed, there is no indication that any consumer has ever seen or heard the term.

Vogue - Volume 146, 1965:

"awn of a new day in spray. ..the Airomatique! An original Lalique flacon with a very special atomizer, created in Paris by Marcel Franck. Just a touch of your finger releases a fine mist of L'Air du Temps Eau de Toilette. It's all fragrance. And all in all the most beautiful addition to your boudoir."

The atomizer below was called the "Young Romantic" bottle.

 In September 1987, Nina Ricci introduced the L'Air du Temps Eau de Parfum Haute Concentration.

Special Editions:

Over the years, there have been special edition flacons based on the doves bottles.

Lalique Winged Crystal Flacon from 1996, limited edition release.

For the 50th Anniversary of the launch of L'Air du Temps, a slightly different Lalique dove flacon was created, this time, the  bottle has its ribs in an alternate position, the bottle rests on a blue glass plinth embossed with stars. This was released in 1998.

In 2005, an amber tinted crystal flacon was launched as a limited edition.

In 2006, a pearlized crystal flacon was issued for a limited time.

For the 60th anniversary of the fragrance, L'Air du Temps was presented in a black crystal flacon by Lalique known as L'Air du Temps Noel for New Year's Day 2008, this edition was limited to only 480 pieces. A less expensive  L'Air du Temps Noel edition was created in black glass and tinted plastic, it held 100ml eau de toilette spray.

Another beautiful special edition bottle is titled L'Air du Temps Cristal d'Or, of crystal, it features gilded accents on the doves wings and ribbed base, it was presented in 2009. It held 15ml of parfum and retailed for 400 euros.

For the 65th anniversary of the perfume's launch, 2013, designer Olivia Putman has designed a limited edition bottle reminiscent of the original parfum flacon. But modernizing it, it now takes a rounder form, a slash of blue and the doves are also reprised in blue instead of the colorless frosted crystal.

These special editions aren't limited to just the parfum extraits, the eau de parfum and eau de toilette bottles have gone thru many changes also. There are limited edition presentations such as the Couture Edition for 1.7 oz eau de toilette, which has yellow green bottle and also playfully features a wreath of real feathers which have been dyed green, that encircle the bottle. This edition is the 2008 anniversary edition in honor of 60th anniversary since launch of fragrance L`Air du Temps in 1948.

A 2010 limited edition 45ml  eau de toilette flacon was designed by Philippe Starck.  The juice has not changed, only the shape of the flacon. On the occasion of redesign of the bottle, Philippe Starck said the following: 

“There is no difference in making a rocket, a hotel, a motorbike, a museum or a fragrance because the actual object is of no importance. What’s important is how it’s going to affect the person who lives in that place or with that object. So for me, a fragrance, and above all, L’Air du Temps by Nina Ricci, is a matter of vibration. It’s getting the air to vibrate in a way that suddenly moves us.  

I do not like the old perfumes, I do not like the new perfumes, I like the eternal perfumes. And Air du Temps is one. There is always in my work, that I succeed or not, a profound will of timelessness.” 

Design of L`Air du Temps symbolizes love, peace and freedom. Collaboration between Nina Ricci and Starck pushed these symbols to the first plan again. Kissing pigeons are united to create the whole flacon. Instead of redesigning the characteristic cap, the designer gives new structure and form of a kiss to the whole bottle. The flacon accentuates modern tendencies and is easier for its new owner to carry it around.

2022 Limited Edition:

Nina Ricci - "L'air du Temps" in collaboration with Antoinette Poisson (2022)

Spray bottle containing 50 ml of eau de parfum in film-coated glass with blue floral decoration on a white background, topped with a stopper featuring two doves.

The flanker fragrance compositions:

By 1985, L'Air du Temps ranked among the five best-selling fragrance lines in the United States with annual wholesale sales of approximately $40 million. At that time, L'Air du Temps was available in many forms, including the following: perfume; eau de perfume; eau de toilette; lotions; dusting powder; soaps; bath oils; and creams. L'Air du Temps products were available in approximately 3,000 stores and boutiques around the country. 

L'Air du Temps has inspired other Nina Ricci flankers such as L'Air du Printemps, L'Eau de Temps, L'Air du Temps Colombes Couleur, and Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps Love Fills.

L'Air du Temps Colombes Couleurs, launched in 2006. Available as 3.4 oz eau de toilette.

• Top notes: Earl Grey tea, lotus, solar accord
• Middle notes: cyclamen, jasmine, lily, lily of the valley
• Base notes: Georgia wood, sandalwood and white musk

L'Air du Temps Love Fills, launched in 2004.

• Top notes: peach, basil, bergamot, lemon,
• Middle notes:  peony, carnation, violet, mimosa, freesia, lilac, rose
• Base notes: sandalwood, patchouli, oakmoss, and musk

L'Air du Printemps, launched in 2009.This reinterpretation of the original juices. It includes aromas of the first perfume, which are refreshed and more powdery in this edition. The perfume is available as 100ml edt,as a limited edition.

• Top notes: Queen rose, cedrat, crystal flower accords
• Middle notes: jasmine, solar accords,  frangipani
• Base notes: musk, pear, sandalwood and cedar

L'Eau du Temps, launched in 2007, Developed by Givaudan.It is available in 3.4 oz eau de toilette.

• Top notes: mandarin, orange and bergamot, blackcurrant, peppercorn and coriander
• Middle notes: gardenia, carnation, jasmine, ylang ylang and tuberose.
• Base notes: amber, musk and Georgian wood

L'Air: launched in 2011 as 100ml eau de parfum.. It was announced as an airy and floral edition composed of intertwining notes of honeysuckle, jasmine, magnolia, violet extract and powdery notes. The flacon was created in the spirit of the classic edition and is decorated with pink nuances. Its stopper features kissing doves.

Ancillary Products:

Discover the L'Air du Temps Perfume range: 

• 1/4 oz parfum in Lalique crystal flacon
• 1/2 oz parfum in Lalique crystal flacon
• 1 oz oz parfum in Lalique crystal flacon
• 1/4 oz parfum spray
• 1 oz eau de parfum
• 1.7 oz eau de parfum
• 2.5 oz eau de parfum
• 3.4 oz  eau de parfum
• 1 oz eau de toilette
• 1.7 oz eau de toilette
• 2.5 oz eau de toilette
• 3.4 oz eau de toilette
• 2.6 oz perfumed candle
• 1.7 oz soap
• 3.3 oz soap
• 3.3 oz deodorant spray
• 3.3 oz shower gel
• 6.6 oz shower gel
• 3.3 oz body lotion
• 6.6 oz body lotion
• 6.8 oz body cream
• 5.2 oz body powder
• 0.2 oz eau de toilette replica mini 
• 0.08 oz eau de toilette replica mini 
• 0.13 oz eau de parfum roll on

It is also possible to find a beautiful L'Air du Temps powder boxes made up of Lalique crystal. One example was a limited edition that was launched in 1975 and is somewhat hard to find. It is frosted crystal and features a single dove in flight on the lid and measures 5" in diameter.

Other Lalique powder boxes for L'Air du Temps

Powder Jar c1980s