Capricci by Nina Ricci c1960

Launched in 1960, Capricci by Nina Ricci was a perfume that perfectly captured the elegance and spirit of its time. The name "Capricci," an Italian word pronounced kah-PREE-chee, translates to "whims" or "fancies." It evokes an air of playfulness and spontaneity, conjuring images of lighthearted indulgence, artistic creativity, and a touch of unpredictability. By choosing this name, Nina Ricci embraced the essence of refined femininity with an adventurous, free-spirited twist, reflecting the cultural and social currents of the early 1960s.

The 1960s marked the dawn of a transformative era, often referred to as the Swinging Sixties, characterized by profound cultural and social shifts. While the decade is famously associated with revolutionary styles later on, the early 1960s retained much of the elegance and structured sophistication of the late 1950s. Fashion was moving away from the full skirts of Dior's New Look toward sleeker, more modern silhouettes introduced by designers like Balenciaga and Ricci herself. Women embraced tailored suits, sheath dresses, and understated glamour, with elegance remaining a dominant theme. Perfumes like Capricci complemented this aesthetic, offering a scent that was light, polished, and sophisticated—perfectly suited to a woman who valued refinement but was not afraid to indulge her whims.

The composition of Capricci, created by Marcel Carles, encapsulated this duality of structure and freedom. Classified as a light, aldehydic floral fragrance with a citrusy touch, it exuded sophistication and modernity. The blend of aldehydes and sparkling citrus top notes created an uplifting and fresh introduction, capturing the carefree energy of the word "Capricci." At its heart, the fragrance unfolded into a radiant bouquet of lily of the valley, reseda, Chinese gardenia, jasmine, and Bulgarian roses, each carefully chosen to evoke a sense of timeless femininity. The base notes of musk, oakmoss, and ambergris added depth and warmth, grounding the fragrance with a sensual, yet restrained elegance.

In the context of other fragrances of the era, Capricci was distinctive yet aligned with prevailing trends. The 1960s saw the rise of aldehydic florals as symbols of sophistication and modernity, with Chanel No. 5 remaining a benchmark. However, Capricci stood out for its unique balance of lightness and complexity, offering a fragrance that was both delicate and memorable. Its use of high-quality ingredients, combined with an expertly blended composition, reflected the luxurious ethos of Nina Ricci perfumes.

The name Capricci and its light, elegant scent would have resonated deeply with women of the time. It appealed to the sophisticated, modern woman who embraced the growing sense of independence and self-expression while maintaining an air of timeless grace. The fragrance was not only a personal accessory but also a symbol of cultural refinement. Its prestige was further underscored by its selection as an official French government gift to visiting royalty, cementing its status as a fragrance of exceptional quality and significance.

Ultimately, Capricci was more than just a perfume—it was a reflection of the era’s evolving ideals of femininity, elegance, and modernity. Its ability to capture the imagination and emotions of its wearer, paired with its exquisite craftsmanship, ensured its place as a cherished treasure in the world of perfumery, particularly in Europe, where it was highly prized. The scent interpreted the word "Capricci" not only as a fragrant expression of whimsy and sophistication but also as an ode to the artistry and beauty of Nina Ricci's vision.

Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a light, elegant aldehydic citrusy floral fragrance for women. Sophisticated, modern aldehydic blend with lily of the valley, reseda, Chinese gardenia, jasmine and Bulgarian roses layered over musk oakmoss and ambergris.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot, green leaves, calyx note, Dutch lily of the valley, reseda
• Middle notes: oregano, Spanish rosemary, tuberose, Chinese gardenia, Florentine orris root, Grasse jasmine absolute, Dutch hyacinth, Comoros ylang-ylang, Alpine lily-of-the-valley, Bourbon geranium, Bulgarian rose, Grasse may rose absolute, and French narcissus
• Base notes: ambergris, Mysore sandalwood, Tonkin musk, Siamese benzoin, Yugoslavian oakmoss and Haitian vetiver

 

Scent Profile:

The fragrance opens with the sparkling brilliance of aldehydes, a bright and effervescent introduction that feels like crisp morning air kissed with light. Aldehydes bring a champagne-like sparkle, creating a clean, airy impression that immediately uplifts. This brightness is tempered by the citrusy, sunlit warmth of Calabrian bergamot. Known for its unparalleled quality, bergamot from Calabria in southern Italy is prized for its sweet, floral undertones and tangy zest, a balance unmatched by bergamot from other regions.

Green leaves and calyx notes lend a fresh, dewy quality, evoking the image of newly unfurled foliage glistening with morning dew. The Dutch lily of the valley adds its delicate, bell-like aroma—a soft, green floral scent that is both fresh and nostalgic, reminiscent of springtime blooms. Reseda, also known as mignonette, offers a unique touch with its gentle sweetness, blending subtle floral and slightly grassy notes that weave through the opening accord like a fragrant breeze.

As the fragrance evolves, the heart blooms with a symphony of florals, each contributing a unique character. Oregano and Spanish rosemary add unexpected herbal nuances, their crisp, aromatic qualities grounding the floral bouquet with a touch of earthiness.

Chinese gardenia unfolds with creamy, velvety white petals, its lush floral aroma tinged with a hint of green freshness. The rich, buttery quality of tuberose complements the gardenia, creating a sensual depth. Florentine orris root, derived from the rhizomes of iris plants grown in Italy, adds an incomparable powdery elegance, softening the intensity of the heady white florals. Its buttery richness lends a luxurious texture to the fragrance.

Grasse jasmine absolute brings the soul of French perfumery to the blend. Harvested in the perfume capital of the world, the jasmine here is sweeter, more complex, and laced with subtle fruitiness, offering a luminous and voluptuous quality. Dutch hyacinth adds a fresh, aquatic floral note, reminiscent of spring gardens filled with clusters of vibrant blooms. Comoros ylang-ylang introduces exotic warmth, its tropical aroma a blend of creamy florals and a faint hint of banana-like sweetness.

The heart also includes Alpine lily of the valley, a more delicate, mountain-sourced variation of the classic floral, adding an airy purity. Bourbon geranium from Réunion Island lends its citrus-rosy freshness, while Bulgarian rose and Grasse may rose absolute bring an opulent, velvety richness, steeped in honeyed and spicy undertones. French narcissus adds a green, almost hay-like floral aspect, enhancing the complexity of this bouquet.

As the fragrance dries down, it reveals a base that is both sensual and grounding. Ambergris adds a soft, animalic warmth with marine undertones, lending depth and richness. Mysore sandalwood, famed for its creamy, smooth aroma, imparts a luxurious, milky quality that is unmatched by sandalwood from other regions. Its rich, woody warmth provides a soothing anchor for the floral heart.

Tonkin musk, a rare and treasured ingredient, contributes a sensual, animalic allure that lingers on the skin, blending seamlessly with the natural warmth of the wearer. Siamese benzoin offers a resinous sweetness, with balsamic and vanilla-like nuances, enveloping the fragrance in a comforting softness. Yugoslavian oakmoss adds an earthy, forest-like depth with faintly leathery undertones, evoking the scent of cool, shaded woods. Finally, Haitian vetiver, known for its smoky, grassy complexity, rounds out the base with its earthy sophistication, adding a subtle touch of mystery.

Together, these ingredients form an exquisite fragrance that evolves gracefully from sparkling brightness to lush florals and, finally, to a warm, enveloping dry down. Capricci is a masterful blend that captures whimsy and sophistication, a true reflection of its name and time.

Bottles:

The original Capricci was available in Parfum and Eau de Toilette concentration only.  Parfum was housed in Lalique crystal bottles. 

Deluxe Faceted Crystal Bottles:

The deluxe bottles are faceted cut crystal. The largest Lalique parfum bottle for Capricci holds 11 oz.

 

• 11 oz = 6.25" tall.
• 6.6 oz = 6" tall.

Disk Shaped Splash Bottles:

These bottles debuted in the 1950s and are found in both parfum and eau de toilette concentration. The bottles were manufactured by Lalique, the circular body has a scalloped design around the edges and a spherical glass stopper with the initials NR raised on the neck. These bottles were fitted with round paper labels. The Eau de Capricci bottles were fitted with a gilded screw cap. 

Parfum Bottle sizes:

• 8.75" tall
• 5 1/8" tall  (6.8 oz), with screw cap
• 5" tall (3.3 oz) 
• 4 1/2" tall, parfum with oval shaped body, crystal stopper
• 4 1/4" tall (1 3/4 oz), parfum with crystal stopper
• 4" tall, parfum with crystal stopper
• 3 3/4" tall
• 3 1/4" tall (1 oz) parfum, with crystal stopper
• 3" tall (1/4 oz) 
• 2 5/8" tall (3/7 oz), parfum with crystal stopper
• 2 3/4" tall 

Jeweler's Opera Flacon:

This purse size bottle holds 1/5 oz of Capricci Parfum in a refillable splash bottle. Bottle stands about 2.5"tall. This little clear glass bottle is encased in gold tone metal latticework, its cap is in the shape of a gold tone metal rose. It was packaged along with a tiny gilt metal funnel in a luxurious brown presentation case lined with bronze colored satin. Reference #7286. 

Capricci was also available in eau de toilette concentration in two different bottles, a disk shaped Lalique designed splash flacon that was a standard bottle for other Ricci perfumes (also used for eau de cologne), 

The EDT splash was available in four sizes and the EDT sprays were available in 4 oz luxe atomizer, a 2 oz refillable atomizer and a tall, cylindrical spray Lalique glass bottle with brass trimming, called the "Airomatique Spray"..

Vogue - Volume 146, 1965:

"awn of a new day in spray. ..the Airomatique! An original Lalique flacon with a very special atomizer, created in Paris by Marcel Franck. Just a touch of your finger releases a fine mist of Capricci Eau de Toilette. It's all fragrance. And all in all the most beautiful addition to your boudoir."

Bath and body products were introduced: perfumed soap, perfumed bath foam, perfumed body cream, and perfumed talc.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The disparity in the success of Nina Ricci perfumes such as Coeur Joie, Capricci, Farouche, and Fleurs de Fleurs in Europe versus the American market can be attributed to stark differences in cultural preferences and perceptions of fragrance. European women, particularly those in France, have traditionally embraced perfumes as an essential element of femininity and personal identity. Light, floral compositions—hallmarks of Nina Ricci’s creations—resonate deeply with European sensibilities, which often favor subtle, romantic, and elegant scents. The ethereal, airy quality of these perfumes reflects an ideal of understated sophistication, enhancing the wearer’s natural allure rather than overpowering it.

By contrast, American women during this period were drawn to bold, assertive fragrances with strong, long-lasting sillage. The preference for heavier, more aggressive scents aligned with the American cultural image of perfume as a statement of power and sensuality. These olfactory preferences mirrored the societal shifts of the time, where perfumes often served as extensions of individuality and modernity. As a result, the delicate floral elegance of Nina Ricci's perfumes, designed to complement rather than dominate, struggled to capture the same level of attention in the American market.

Another significant factor in this divide was the perception of luxury and the value placed on presentation. European consumers, particularly in France, placed immense importance on the artistry of perfume packaging. Decorative crystal bottles—such as those created by Lalique for Nina Ricci—were not just vessels but treasured keepsakes, evoking a sense of timeless beauty and craftsmanship. In America, however, the emphasis was less on packaging artistry and more on the fragrance's impact and performance. Practicality often overshadowed decorative appeal, and the intricate, romantic designs of Nina Ricci’s bottles may have seemed less relevant to the American consumer.

As Lina Vitali, vice president of Parfums Nina Ricci USA, explained in 1989, the French view of perfume is inherently tied to romance, femininity, and sophistication. In contrast, the American perception leaned toward perfume as a tool for assertive, sexual expression, with an emphasis on strength and boldness. This divergence in olfactory and aesthetic values made it challenging for Nina Ricci’s light, aldehydic floral blends to find widespread success across the Atlantic.

Although the exact discontinuation date for these fragrances remains unknown, their enduring appeal in Europe attests to their timeless charm. These perfumes remained on the market at least until 1992, continuing to captivate those who appreciated their delicate artistry and refined compositions—a testament to the enduring legacy of Nina Ricci's vision.