Fille d'Eve by Nina Ricci c1950

Fille d’Eve by Nina Ricci, launched in 1950 and introduced to the U.S. market by 1952, was a fragrance that carried with it a rich symbolism drawn from both biblical and mythological imagery. The name "Fille d’Eve" translates from French to "Daughter of Eve" (pronounced "Fee-ye d’Ev"), referring to the first woman in the Bible, Eve, and by extension, all women who followed her. Eve is often seen as the mother of humanity, and the notion of a “daughter of Eve” evokes a sense of innocence, purity, and perhaps a touch of temptation—the themes of womanhood as both nurturing and enigmatic. The name implies a connection to feminine archetypes—the original woman whose beauty, complexity, and essence are celebrated.

In the context of the early 1950s, a time marked by the post-war recovery, elegance, and femininity were central to the cultural atmosphere. The world was still transitioning from the austerity of wartime, and the fashion industry was beginning to embrace the opulence and softness that defined the post-war era. Women were encouraged to embrace their feminine sides, with hourglass silhouettes, luxurious fabrics, and delicate adornments becoming increasingly popular. The fragrance world mirrored this return to elegance with a shift away from the heavier, more austere perfumes of the 1940s to lighter, floral and fruity compositions that still carried a sense of depth and sophistication.

As for how women of the time would relate to a perfume named "Fille d’Eve," it would resonate with the feminine ideals of the day. The idea of a perfume named after Eve’s daughter would be a celebration of womanhood, invoking notions of natural beauty, charm, and sensuality. Women of the time would likely see this perfume as a way to embrace their own femininity, drawing on the age-old associations of Eve as a symbol of creation, allure, and feminine power. The fragrance’s aromatic green fruity floral chypre composition, with its notes of peach, jasmine, and rosemary, would evoke feelings of freshness and elegance, aligning with the era’s appreciation for light but complex floral bouquets.

The scent itself was carefully crafted by Jacques Bercia and Michel Hy, and as a chypre fragrance, it carried that distinctive balance of freshness and earthiness that chypres are known for. The green notes of rosemary and hawthorn, paired with the fruity sweetness of peach, created a vibrant, youthful opening that would appeal to women who desired something fresh yet sophisticated. The floral heart of jasmine added a layer of elegance, while the musk and sandalwood in the base lent a warm, grounding depth, creating a well-rounded and complex fragrance that was both inviting and sensual. This combination of freshness and depth made it a perfume that stood out among other fragrances of the time, reflecting the era’s evolving desire for more layered, multi-dimensional scents.

In the context of the post-war perfume market, Fille d’Eve was not radically unique, but it did embody the era’s shift toward more sophisticated, floral, and fresh chypre compositions, influenced by the successes of earlier fragrances like Chanel No. 5 and Miss Dior. While it followed the trend of delicate florals, its green, aromatic elements and fruity top notes made it stand out as a scent that was both elegant and invigorating, perfectly capturing the spirit of feminine renewal.

The fragrance continued the Eve theme through its packaging as well. The perfume was housed in an apple-shaped crystal flacon manufactured by the renowned Lalique, a design that reinforced the mythological connections. The apple, of course, is famously associated with Eve and the Garden of Eden, symbolizing both temptation and new beginnings. This creative and symbolic bottle design was a perfect complement to the fragrance itself, adding an additional layer of meaning to the perfume’s presentation.

In summary, Fille d’Eve was a fragrance that captured the grace and femininity of its time, evoking both the biblical symbolism of Eve and the cultural renewal of the post-war era. It appealed to women who wanted to express their femininity in a way that was both sophisticated and youthful, embodying the romance and elegance of the period.

 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aromatic green fruity floral chypre fragrance for women. Chypre and musk, with a touch of sandalwood and a fruity note of peach leave a bouquet where we find jasmine, rosemary and hawthorn.

• Top notes: wisteria, acacia, aldehyde, Grasse narcissus, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian lemon, peach, apple, pear, hawthorn, Spanish rosemary
• Middle notes: daffodil, Grasse rose de mai absolute, Zanzibar clove, plum, Grasse jasmine absolute, honeysuckle, French bouvardia, pinang nut, Alpine lily of the valley, Dutch lily
• Base notes: resins, Singapore patchouli, leather, Sumatran balsam, Mysore sandalwood, Tyrolean oakmoss, ambergris, Asian musk, Omani frankincense, Yugoslavian oak absolute, Maltese cistus labdanum 

 

L'Amour de l'art, 1950:

"Daughter of Eve by Nina Ricci: Every woman will be intrigued by this forbidden fruit. The mysterious and fresh scent, a sublime blend of chypre and rare essences, beckons with irresistible allure. Encased in a Lalique apple, this captivating fragrance holds a seductive essence within. Who will be the fortunate soul to receive this prize of beauty, just as Paris once bestowed a gift of allure in myth?"

Combat, 1950:

"Daughter of Eve: It seems that sin is gently suggested, drawn from the sap of fruits drenched in the sweetness of chypre."

Combat, 1953:

"Fille d'Eve by Nina Ricci – A blend of chypre and musk, accented by a hint of sandalwood and the fruity sweetness of peach, opens to reveal a bouquet of jasmine, rosemary, and hawthorn. It evokes the essence of holidays—the exhilarating encounters, idealized discoveries, and leisurely parades. Picture a playful chase through museums, landscapes, and palace corridors, followed by austere dinners and casino nights. There are whispered confidences, moments of boldness, hands secretly clasped, and lingering glances. It captures the thrill of secret rendezvous and the fleeting nature of dreams, all unraveling as the return to everyday life looms."

Combat, 1954:

"Eau Fille d'Eve by Nina Ricci: To capture the essence of this delicate chypre fragrance, I would blend the seasons themselves. Why not? Imagine the harmony of juicy apples and musky pears alongside a branch of hawthorn, with its green leaves and white bells—proof that nothing is off-limits in the realm of dreams. Let a touch of sandalwood complete the story, adding depth to the allegory."

Scent Profile:

The fragrance opens with the delicate floral embrace of wisteria, a cascade of soft purple blooms whose scent carries a subtle sweetness with green undertones. Its ethereal quality sets the stage for the tender aroma of acacia, warm and honeyed, reminiscent of sunlight filtering through delicate blossoms. Aldehyde, with its sparkling effervescence, brings a crisp and airy brightness, lifting the initial impression.

The floral heart of Grasse narcissus—harvested in the perfume capital of France—exudes a heady, narcotic sweetness, earthy yet floral, as if plucked freshly from dew-drenched fields. This is balanced by the citrusy brightness of Calabrian bergamot and Sicilian lemon, both prized for their exceptional vibrancy. The bergamot from Calabria is notably softer and sweeter, while the lemon from Sicily offers zesty sharpness that enlivens the senses.

Fruity notes follow, with peach, juicy and velvety, mingling with the crisp bite of apple and the honeyed freshness of pear. The presence of hawthorn lends an unexpected twist—its bittersweet floral note evokes hedgerows in bloom, grounding the fruitiness with a faint herbal nuance. Finally, Spanish rosemary weaves through the composition, adding a green, aromatic sharpness, evoking wild Mediterranean landscapes.

As the fragrance develops, the floral bouquet deepens. The golden richness of daffodil dances alongside Grasse rose de mai absolute, a symbol of elegance with its lush, soft petals imbued with honeyed and slightly peppery facets. Zanzibar clove, cultivated on the Spice Islands, adds an exotic warmth with its rich, spicy aroma, mingling harmoniously with the juicy sweetness of plum.

The heart is further enriched by Grasse jasmine absolute, with its intoxicatingly opulent and creamy aroma that conjures moonlit gardens. This is paired with the delicate sweetness of honeysuckle, evoking a carefree, sunlit charm. The rare French bouvardia contributes its subtly fruity and floral scent, while the intriguing nuttiness of pinang nut offers a hint of exotic intrigue. Alpine lily of the valley lends a green, dewy freshness, and the refined scent of Dutch lily, cool and smooth, adds an air of sophistication.

The dry-down reveals a profoundly sensual and warm base. Resins, rich and balsamic, exude a deep sweetness, while Singapore patchouli imparts an earthy, camphorous depth, distinguished by its smooth, almost chocolaty richness. Leather adds an animalic edge, soft yet smoky, conjuring images of supple craftsmanship.

Sumatran balsam, harvested from towering trees, brings a resinous warmth, while Mysore sandalwood, renowned for its creamy, milky smoothness, imparts unparalleled richness. The mossy forest floor comes to life with Tyrolean oakmoss, damp, green, and earthy, adding a chypre signature. The enigmatic allure of ambergris unfurls, salty and sweet, while Asian musk lends an animalic warmth that’s both sensual and comforting.

The smoky, resinous quality of Omani frankincense, prized for its purity and richness, evokes ancient rituals, while Yugoslavian oak absolute introduces an intense woody nuance. Finally, the lingering sweetness of Maltese cistus labdanum, with its leathery, amber-like aroma, provides a final touch of complexity, ensuring the fragrance lingers seductively on the skin.

Through this intricate layering of ingredients, Fille d’Eve captures the timeless elegance of a fragrance that tells a story—of nature’s bounty, artistry, and a woman’s enduring allure.

The original color of the chypre perfume was green as evidenced by factice bottles. The perfume does age into a very dark, syrupy brown hue, due to the natural maturation of the ingredients.

The Bottles:

Lalique Apple Bottle:

The frosted crystal apple-shaped flacon used for the Parfum Fille d’Eve is a masterpiece of design and craftsmanship created by Marc Lalique and produced by the renowned French glassmaker Lalique et Cie. This exquisite bottle perfectly encapsulates the theme of temptation and femininity associated with the fragrance. The frosted crystal surface lends the flacon a soft, ethereal quality, diffusing light in a way that mimics the delicate texture of a real apple.

The stopper, shaped like a naturalistic apple stem, is adorned with a single sculpted leaf, enhancing the organic elegance of the design. Some rare examples of the bottle feature a second leaf, offering slight variations that add to the collectible charm. These bottles were available in two sizes: a petite 2 1/2 inches and a slightly larger version, each crafted to hold the parfum extrait, the most concentrated and luxurious form of the fragrance. At the time of their release, the flacons were priced at $25.00 and $14.50, reflecting their premium craftsmanship and the exclusivity of the scent within.

The adorable bottle was contained inside of a hinged, wicker basket, lined with green silk satin and tied with a purplish-pink satin bow.

At some point, Nina Ricci commissioned Lalique to create a bottle with a two leaved stopper. This bottle does not appear to ever have been sold in the wicker basket presentation, but rather in a drop front pink satin covered presentation box.

In later years, Maison Lalique revisited this iconic design with their introduction of the "Pomme" (apple) perfume flacon. These newer bottles, based on the original design for Fille d’Eve, were manufactured with a slight modification: the stopper consistently featured two leaves, lending them a more symmetrical and balanced appearance. Unlike the original, these updated flacons were sold empty, allowing buyers the freedom to fill them with their own favorite perfumes. This reimagining of the original design not only paid homage to Marc Lalique's artistry but also extended its legacy, inviting a new generation of collectors to experience the timeless beauty of this iconic bottle.

Whether holding the parfum extrait of Fille d’Eve or serving as a customizable keepsake, the apple-shaped flacon continues to symbolize the seductive allure of the fragrance it once housed and remains a treasured example of Lalique's unparalleled artistry in glassmaking.

Apple Purse Bottle:

Also part of the Fille d’Eve collection was a charming apple-shaped purse flacon, designed to bring a touch of elegance and practicality to fragrance application on the go. Made of frosted crystal, this miniature bottle echoed the motif of the larger flacon but was uniquely flat and slightly concave, creating a compact, lightweight form ideal for carrying in a handbag or clutch. The delicate surface was molded with two sculpted leaves, reinforcing the naturalistic apple theme, while its functional yet luxurious design was completed with a gilded screw cap, adding a hint of opulence. Originally priced at just $4.50, this petite flacon was an accessible indulgence, combining artistry and convenience. Perfect for the modern woman of its time, it offered an elegant solution for keeping the alluring scent of Fille d’Eve close at hand throughout the day. It stands 2 1/8" tall and is 2 1/2" across. The bottle could be had in its deluxe presentation, a smaller version of the wicker basket as used for the large apple bottle, as well as an oval acetate box.

L'Atlantique, 1952:

"In 1945, Nina Ricci introduced what was likely the first handbag-sized perfume flask with her fragrance Coeur-Joie. Now, she has unveiled a new miniature bottle for her latest success, Fille d'Eve. The perfume is housed in a stunning Lalique bottle, elegantly encased in a pleated organza holder. The same captivating fragrance serves as the base for the newly launched Daughter of Eve eau de toilette, which debuted this autumn."

Please note that this bottle is also found unfrosted.

Apple Leaf Purse Bottle:

A delicate miniature apple-leaf-shaped flacon was also part of the Fille d’Eve collection, crafted to hold the parfum extrait in an exquisitely small form. Made of frosted crystal, this dainty design captured the essence of nature, with its sculpted, leaf-like contours resembling the gentle curves of an apple leaf. The frosted finish added a soft, ethereal quality, enhancing the luxurious feel of this tiny treasure. Fitted with a practical screw cap, the design balanced elegance with functionality. Despite its diminutive size, it carried the prestige of the larger bottles, offering an affordable entry point to Nina Ricci's world of refined fragrance. Originally priced at just $2.00, this petite flacon was an enchanting keepsake, perfect for collectors and admirers of fine perfume alike.

This petite apple-leaf-shaped flacon, crafted from frosted crystal and designed to hold the parfum extrait, was beautifully presented in an oval-shaped, transparent acetate box. The clear packaging allowed the delicate details of the flacon to shine through, showcasing its graceful, leaf-inspired contours and frosted finish. The oval box not only protected the diminutive treasure but also added an air of sophistication to its presentation, making it an ideal gift or collector's item. The combination of the crystal flacon and its elegant housing reflected the meticulous attention to detail synonymous with Nina Ricci's creations, offering a charming touch of luxury for just $2.00.

Four Heart Vial:

The frosted crystal four-heart vial, originally designed by Marc Lalique for Nina Ricci's Coeur-Joie, was later repurposed to house the exquisite Fille d’Eve parfum extrait. This delicate vial, manufactured by Lalique et Cie, featured a unique design of four interlocking hearts, symbolizing love, femininity, and romance. The frosted finish lent the vial a soft, ethereal quality, enhancing its timeless elegance. Its compact size and intricate craftsmanship made it an ideal vessel for the concentrated extrait, encapsulating the charm and luxury that Nina Ricci perfumes were celebrated for. The versatility of this design demonstrated Lalique's ability to create enduring symbols of beauty that seamlessly adapted to multiple fragrances, further enriching the perfume’s allure.

Starburst Bottle:

Another captivating design used for the Fille d’Eve parfum extrait was the miniature starburst-shaped flacon, a repurposed design originally crafted for Nina Ricci's iconic L’Air du Temps. This petite bottle featured an intricate, radiating starburst pattern that caught and reflected light beautifully, highlighting its frosted crystal finish. Topped with a small brass screw cap, the flacon balanced practicality with elegance, making it both a decorative keepsake and a functional vessel for the luxurious parfum extrait. The reuse of this distinctive shape showcased the timeless appeal of Nina Ricci's bottle designs and Lalique's masterful ability to create enduring symbols of refinement and charm.

Other Bottles:

Fille d’Eve Eau de Toilette was presented in two distinct bottles, each catering to different preferences in style and functionality. The first was a disk-shaped splash flacon designed by Lalique, a standard bottle design that Nina Ricci often utilized for her other perfumes, including her eau de colognes. This elegant and understated flacon featured a simple, rounded silhouette with a frosted finish, exuding classic refinement. The wide opening allowed for easy application, making it ideal for those who appreciated the traditional splash method of applying fragrance. You will also come across these disk bottles fitted with screwcaps.

 

The second bottle was a tall, cylindrical spray flacon, offering a more modern and practical design for the time. Accented with brass trimming, this sleek bottle embodied sophistication and ease of use, catering to women who favored the convenience of a fine mist application. The contrast between the two bottles not only highlighted the versatility of the fragrance but also provided options for women to choose a bottle that best suited their personal preferences and lifestyles. Both designs carried the timeless elegance that was synonymous with Nina Ricci, ensuring the essence of Fille d’Eve was as visually enchanting as the scent itself.

 

 

 

The Fate of the Fragrance:

Launched in 1950, Fille d’Eve by Nina Ricci quickly enchanted romantics and perfume enthusiasts alike. This fragrance was as much a visual delight as it was an olfactory experience, presented in an adorable apple-shaped bottle designed by the legendary Marc Lalique and crafted by Lalique et Cie. The frosted crystal flacon, with its charming stem and leaf stoppers, perfectly captured the essence of the fragrance's inspiration—a nod to the mythical apple of temptation. To add to its allure, the bottle was often accompanied by a unique wicker basket presentation, evoking a sense of rustic charm and timeless elegance. This whimsical packaging set Fille d’Eve apart from other perfumes of its time, emphasizing Nina Ricci’s mastery of combining artistry and fragrance.

The fragrance itself was a rare treasure, known for its delicate yet distinctive composition that spoke to women’s romantic and feminine sides. While the exact date of discontinuation remains unknown, Fille d’Eve was still being sold in 1973, suggesting a significant period of availability. Despite its enduring charm, the fragrance eventually faded from the market, becoming an extremely rare collector’s item in the years since. For those fortunate enough to encounter it today, Fille d’Eve remains a nostalgic relic of a bygone era, celebrated for its enchanting design and timeless appeal.