Farouche by Nina Ricci c1973

Farouche by Nina Ricci, launched in 1973, embodies a name that carries both intrigue and depth. The word "Farouche" is French, pronounced as "fah-roosh". It translates to "wild" or "shy" in English, depending on its context. It conjures an image of untamed elegance, a sense of enigmatic allure, and a hint of guarded vulnerability. The word evokes emotions of mystery, independence, and natural beauty, perfectly aligning with a fragrance designed to feel intimate yet memorable. Choosing such a name reflects the duality of a woman’s spirit—strong yet delicate, mysterious yet captivating.

The early 1970s were a transformative period, often considered part of the broader "Me Decade," a term coined by Tom Wolfe to describe the rise of self-expression and individuality. Society was moving away from the structured norms of the 1960s, embracing freedom in lifestyles, fashion, and art. Feminism was gaining momentum, and women were seeking ways to express their independence and identity. In fashion, this was the era of bold choices—maxi skirts, wide-legged trousers, bohemian prints, and tailored suits all coexisted, reflecting the eclectic and experimental spirit of the time. The influence of nature and simplicity was evident in designs, with earthy tones and flowing silhouettes gaining popularity.

During this period, perfumes became more than just accessories; they were personal statements. A perfume named Farouche would have appealed to women seeking a fragrance that mirrored their newfound freedom and individuality. The name suggested a blend of untamed beauty and emotional depth, qualities that resonated with the evolving identity of women in the 1970s.

Created by the renowned perfumer Michel Hy, Farouche is classified as an aldehydic floral woody fragrance for women. Its composition is a harmonious balance of complexity and sophistication, reportedly made from 100 precious ingredients. It opens with fresh aldehydic notes, providing a crisp, sparkling introduction. The heart blooms with radiant floral notes of jasmine and rose absolute, accompanied by rare oriental fruits and woodsy blossoms, evoking an air of elegance and warmth. The scent settles into a powdery, feminine base that lingers softly, leaving a memorable impression.

The inclusion of aldehydes in the composition lent a modern and ethereal quality, aligning with other iconic fragrances of the era, such as Chanel No. 5 and Arpège, while the use of rare woody and fruity notes added a unique twist. In this way, Farouche stood out as both a tribute to established trends and a bold exploration of innovative fragrance structures.

In the 1970s, aldehydic floral fragrances were well-established, yet perfumers were exploring ways to add depth and individuality to their creations. Farouche’s blend of aldehydes with an intricate woody and fruity accord was a striking move, offering a multi-dimensional olfactory experience. This balanced both the timeless sophistication of classic aldehydic florals and the emerging desire for perfumes that felt personal, distinctive, and emotional.

Women of the time would have related to Farouche as a reflection of their aspirations and identities. It was not just a perfume but an extension of their personality—a scent that was bold yet intimate, polished yet untamed. Its name and scent encapsulated the spirit of a woman unafraid to embrace her complexities, making it a memorable addition to Nina Ricci’s fragrance portfolio.

In a 1978 interview, Robert Ricci, son of Nina Ricci and steward of the brand, highlighted the artistry and philosophy behind the creation of Farouche. Ricci expressed his disdain for the trend of "chemical mixtures" dominating the fragrance market at the time, calling them "dead" fragrances that lacked the warmth and vitality of natural essences. While he acknowledged the occasional use of laboratory-made elements, Ricci firmly believed that a great perfume must rely predominantly on natural ingredients. This approach, he explained, is what lends a fragrance its enduring charm and emotional resonance, ensuring it remains captivating over time.

Ricci was touring the United States to promote Farouche, a fragrance introduced a few years earlier but still considered "new" due to its gradual approach to gaining recognition. "It is not wise to make a blitz, as you say, to introduce a couture fragrance," Ricci remarked. "If it has validity, it must find its patrons, who will tell others, and thus it grows." This organic approach to marketing reflects the brand’s confidence in the perfume’s quality and timeless appeal, a strategy rooted in patience and trust in the discerning tastes of its clientele.

Farouche emerged as a bold companion to Nina Ricci’s iconic L’Air du Temps, a fragrance instantly identifiable by its Lalique dove bottle. Ricci admitted the challenge of following up a legendary scent, stating, "When you have been identified so strongly with one great perfume, it is most difficult to launch a second with success." However, he felt that the shifting cultural landscape of the 1970s demanded something new. He envisioned a fragrance with "dash" and a sophisticated edge, designed to resonate with the modern woman and her evolving identity.

Creating Farouche was not only an artistic endeavor but also a logistical challenge, particularly when translating the perfumer’s vision into production. Ricci emphasized the difference between Farouche and synthetic fragrances, noting the meticulous process of blending natural essences in small quantities. He likened it to the production of Champagne, where consistency and depth are achieved by blending batches from previous years. In contrast, synthetic fragrances, he explained, are simply mixed and mass-produced, lacking the layered complexity of a carefully crafted scent.

Composed by Michel Hy, Farouche boasts over 100 ingredients and was designed to reveal its full effect on contact with the skin. This personalized unfolding ensures that the fragrance is unique to each wearer, enhancing its emotional connection and making it a true couture creation. Farouche’s meticulous craftsmanship, rooted in Ricci’s commitment to natural essences and artisanal production methods, stands as a testament to the artistry of perfumery in an era increasingly dominated by synthetic shortcuts.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral woody fragrance for women. Highly personal scent, memorable meld of jasmine, rose absolute, rare oriental fruits, woodsy blossoms.

It starts off with a fresh aldehydic top note, followed by a radiant light floral heart, resting on a powdery, feminine base. It was reportedly made up of 100 precious ingredients, including a new dosage of woody and fruity scents.

• Top notes: aldehydes, leafy green note, mandarin orange, Arabian galbanum, peach and Calabrian bergamot
• Middle notes: Cormoran ylang ylang, broom blossom, cyclamen, honeysuckle, Indian carnation, Florentine orris, lily, clary sage, Grasse jasmine absolute, lily-of-the-valley, Grasse rose absolute, geranium and cardamom
• Base notes: orange leaves, Mysore sandalwood, ambergris, Tibetan musk, Tyrolean oakmoss and Java vetiver

The American Home, 1977:

"Nina Ricci's new fragrance, Farouche (French for both "wild" and "shy"), is created from jasmine, rose absolute, rare Oriental fruits, and woodsy blossoms— all meant to complement your personality. 2-oz. Eau de Toilette Spray (refillable)."

House Beautiful, 1977:

"Andrea de Portago, who is half Spanish nobility (her father's side) and half Southern belle (her mother's), is the new model and spokesperson for Nina Ricci's "Farouche" fragrance."

Scent Profile:

The opening of Farouche is vibrant and dazzling, beginning with aldehydes that create a sparkling, champagne-like effervescence. These airy, soapy notes bring an instant sense of freshness, reminiscent of crisp linen drying in a gentle breeze. They are softened by leafy green notes, adding a dewy, verdant touch as if freshly plucked from a shaded forest. The juicy brightness of mandarin orange emerges, sweet and tangy, evoking a sunlit orchard. 

This citrus is complemented by the subtle, resinous bitterness of Arabian galbanum, prized for its depth and earthy undertones. A soft, velvety sweetness follows with ripe peach, its lush aroma conjuring visions of golden summer fruit. Finally, the top notes are rounded out by Calabrian bergamot, a variety from southern Italy known for its unparalleled vibrancy—floral, citrusy, and slightly spicy, capturing the warmth of the Mediterranean sun.

As the perfume transitions to its heart, the radiant floral bouquet unfolds with exquisite complexity. Cormoran ylang-ylang takes center stage, its creamy, tropical aroma rich and opulent, adding an exotic depth. Broom blossom contributes a honeyed, slightly herbal quality, tempering the lushness with a delicate wildflower nuance. 

Cyclamen and honeysuckle lend airy, sweet floral notes that are both fresh and green, evoking a meadow in bloom. Indian carnation introduces a warm, spicy facet, its peppery undertones providing intrigue and contrast. Florentine orris, derived from the rhizome of iris grown in Italy, infuses the heart with a velvety, powdery elegance, offering a rare and luxurious touch. Lily and lily-of-the-valley bring a pure, clean sweetness, while clary sage adds a soft, herbaceous accent that feels grounding. 

Grasse jasmine absolute and Grasse rose absolute, both sourced from the perfume capital of southern France, contribute unparalleled richness and depth. The jasmine is heady and sensual, while the rose is opulent yet fresh, capturing the dewy essence of freshly picked petals. A touch of geranium adds a crisp, rosy-green sharpness, while cardamom introduces a soft, spicy warmth that enhances the floral heart.

The base notes of Farouche anchor the fragrance with a sophisticated, powdery warmth. Orange leaves provide a green, slightly bitter note, balancing the sweetness of the florals. Mysore sandalwood, highly sought after for its creamy, milky, and richly woody aroma, lends the base a velvety texture that feels both calming and luxurious. 

Ambergris, rare and enigmatic, adds a soft, salty-sweet warmth with a hint of marine sensuality. Tibetan musk, derived from sustainable sources, imparts a subtle animalic quality, creating a velvety and intimate softness. Tyrolean oakmoss, harvested from the alpine forests of Austria, gives the base a deep, earthy complexity, with its slightly leathery and mossy nuances. Finally, Java vetiver, from Indonesia, provides a smoky, woody, and slightly nutty aroma, grounding the scent with an exotic, rugged elegance.

Each ingredient in Farouche is chosen not only for its individual beauty but also for its ability to blend harmoniously, creating a composition that is both timeless and deeply personal. The layers unfold like a story, each note contributing to an olfactory tapestry that lingers, unique to its wearer.

Bottles:

The fragrance was available in parfum, eau de toilette, bath oil and perfumed soap. The parfum was quite expensive when it was launched, as the heart shaped one ounce Lalique crystal deluxe flacon retailed at $75.

Vogue, 1977:

"There is a special kind of woman the French call "Farouche. ... In her image, Nina Ricci, Paris, has created a soft but sensuous fragrance. ... And in her honor, has named it Farouche. Perhaps, you are the Farouche woman. The Farouche Deluxe Parfum Flacon is a Lalique Crystal Original bearing the Lalique signature. The longer you know the Farouche woman the more interesting she becomes."

Playbill, 1977:

"Nina Ricci characterizes its Farouche perfume as a lady "independent but not aggressive; strong, but unimpeachably feminine." Sounds like Jackie O. to me. Anyway, Farouche smells lovely, simply lovely, $85 in Lalique crystal."

In the photo collage below, you can see the evolution of the parfum's color over the years of maturation.  

Parfum Splash Bottles:

These crystal bottles, known as the  "Lalique Classical Flacons," were also designed and made Lalique (though some bottles not marked by Lalique and were marked with the Jacqueline Cochran name are made by Pochet et du Courval based on the original Lalique designs) and have a bulbous shape with a graceful tapered neck. They will be fitted with octagonal crystal stoppers and have gold serigraphy across their bellies with the name of the perfume. These bottles debuted in 1968.

The bottle sizes:

• 4" tall (2 oz)
• 3 1/2" tall (1 oz)
• 2 1/2" tall (1/2 oz)
• (1/4 oz)
• 2" tall (1/6 oz) (screwcap)

 

Eau de Farouche Splash Bottles:

These concentrated eau de toilette (Eau de Farouche) and regular eau de toilette Lalique bottles are nearly identical to the splash flacons pictured above, except for the fact that these are not fitted with crystal stoppers, but rather gilded screw caps. These bottles debuted in 1968. 

Bottle sizes:

• 3.3 oz Eau de Toilette Splash
• 6.6 oz Eau de Toilette Splash

"New Romantics" Bottles:

1/5 oz Refillable Parfum Purse Spray, the atomizers below were called the "Young Romantic" bottles and debuted in 1985.

• 2 oz  Refillable Eau de Toilette Spray, the atomizer below was called the "Young Romantic" bottle and debuted in 1985.
• 3.75 oz Eau de Toilette Spray

 

Heart motif purse bottles:

The frosted glass heart motif laydown bottles created for Nina Ricci's Coeur-Joie parfum were a striking addition to the perfume's packaging lineup, showcasing a design that was both elegant and practical. These bottles, designed by Marc Lalique and manufactured by Lalique, continued the brand's tradition of blending luxury with innovative artistry. The laydown design, featuring a horizontal orientation, set these bottles apart from the upright versions, offering a unique aesthetic that mirrored the romantic and whimsical spirit of Coeur-Joie.

Each bottle was crafted with the same frosted glass heart motif seen in the upright versions, maintaining a cohesive visual identity. The bottles were accented with small screw caps, which provided a practical means of securing the highly concentrated parfum while retaining the refined look expected of a luxury fragrance. Their compact size and laydown form made them perfect for travel or for elegant display in an acetate box, which added an extra layer of sophistication and protection to the presentation.

The smallest bottle in this series, featuring a single heart motif, is a particularly intriguing piece. While its design closely aligns with the Lalique aesthetic, it is believed that this size may not have been produced by Lalique itself but rather based on Lalique’s original design. This has made the smallest bottle a subject of debate and fascination among collectors, as its provenance adds a layer of mystery to its already charming appeal.

The acetate boxes in which these bottles were housed added to their luxurious presentation, offering a clear view of the frosted glass and heart motif while ensuring the bottles remained protected and pristine. The combination of the elegant frosted glass, the intricate heart design, and the practical screw caps created a harmonious balance between functionality and artistry.

These laydown bottles stand as a testament to the enduring legacy of Lalique's craftsmanship and Marc Lalique's design ingenuity. They encapsulate the romantic essence of Coeur-Joie while offering collectors and perfume enthusiasts a unique and cherished piece of perfume history.

The frosted glass heart motif laydown bottles for Nina Ricci's Coeur-Joie parfum were available in a range of sizes, each featuring a distinctive arrangement of hearts that added a touch of individuality to every bottle. Designed by Marc Lalique and crafted by Lalique, these bottles maintained a cohesive romantic theme while offering varying sizes for different preferences or needs.

The largest size, measuring 4 inches long, featured four hearts delicately arranged along the body of the bottle. This size was a true statement piece, offering a striking visual presence with its intricately frosted design. The four hearts symbolized an abundance of love and passion, encapsulating the lush, romantic essence of Coeur-Joie in a generously sized bottle that felt both luxurious and indulgent.

The next size down, measuring 3 1/8 inches long, displayed three hearts in a similarly graceful configuration. While slightly more compact, this bottle still had a commanding elegance, with its three hearts evoking the sentiment of a perfect, balanced love. This mid-size bottle would have appealed to those who sought a slightly smaller, but still elegant, option, without compromising the beauty and essence of the fragrance.

The 2 1/4-inch bottle, featuring two hearts, offered a more intimate and personal feel. Smaller in scale, this bottle was perfect for those who preferred a more delicate presentation of Coeur-Joie, with the two hearts symbolizing a softer, more intimate connection. Despite its smaller size, the bottle retained the same level of sophistication and artistry, making it ideal for those who valued both style and practicality.

The smallest size, at 1 1/2 inches long, featured just one heart, providing a simple yet evocative representation of love and affection. This size, while more compact, still carried the same signature Lalique craftsmanship, and the single heart made it a perfect choice for travel or as a collectible. It represented the purest form of the fragrance, an elegant reminder of Coeur-Joie’s delicate yet profound impact.

All sizes were designed to lay horizontally, offering a unique and sleek profile that set them apart from traditional upright bottles. The combination of the intricate heart motifs, the frosted glass finish, and the compact design made these bottles both functional and beautiful, ensuring they stood out as cherished collector’s items and timeless pieces of perfume history.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The discontinuation of Farouche by Nina Ricci remains a poignant reminder of how cultural preferences shape the success or failure of a fragrance in different markets. Though the exact date of its discontinuation is unknown, records confirm its availability as late as 1987. Despite its undeniable quality and artistry, Farouche, along with other Nina Ricci fragrances such as Coeur Joie, Capricci, and Fleurs de Fleurs, struggled to find lasting success in the American market. Meanwhile, these scents enjoyed a loyal following in Europe, highlighting a stark contrast in olfactory tastes and cultural values between the two regions.

In Europe, lighter, more delicate fragrances like Farouche align with the prevailing ideal of femininity, which emphasizes elegance, romance, and sophistication. European women view perfume as an essential accessory that enhances their natural allure in a subtle, graceful manner. The emphasis on artistry extends beyond the scent itself to the packaging, with crystal flacons and intricate designs playing a vital role in a perfume's appeal. For brands like Nina Ricci, this aesthetic, epitomized by the iconic Lalique bottles, resonates deeply with European sensibilities.

In contrast, the American market of the time gravitated toward bold, assertive fragrances that projected confidence and sensuality. Perfumes with stronger, more aggressive compositions, often with heavy sillage and potent longevity, dominated sales. This preference reflects a broader cultural shift in the U.S. during the 1980s, when power and overt sexuality became aspirational traits, aligning with the era's emphasis on assertiveness and self-expression. Perfume was less about understated femininity and more about making a statement, whether in the boardroom or at a glamorous evening event.

Lina Vitali, vice president of Parfums Nina Ricci USA in 1989, articulated this divide: “The French image of perfume is very romantic, feminine, and sophisticated. The American perfume’s image is more aggressive, sexual, and overpowering.” This fundamental difference in perception explains why Farouche, with its soft aldehydic floral-woody profile and emphasis on subtle elegance, failed to resonate with the American audience in the same way it did in Europe.

Ultimately, Farouche reflects a timeless ideal of femininity cherished in its European context but at odds with the trends and expectations of the American market. Its discontinuation in the U.S. is a testament to how deeply cultural preferences influence the trajectory of a fragrance, even one as masterfully crafted as Farouche.

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